The Dream
Its May 2007 and I've got a chance of 10 days off in mid August, so where shall I go?
Being a fan of riders like Ted Simon's round the world adventures and Ewan & Charlie on their "Long way round" and many more, it had to be a motorcycle road trip and camping so I can go and stop where I please, but where shall I go?
I've always wanted to ride to the African continent, so Morocco is possible, but mid August in the Sahara? I think not. It needs to be Europe.
Just looking at the MotoGP calender convinces me the I am going to Brno in the Czech Republic. Valentino Rossi is having a tough time taming Ducati's new boy Casey Stoner, so the Doctor need all the support he can get.
So an embryonic plan takes shape, 2 days to get there, see practice on Saturday and the race on Sunday, then where?
In the remaining 6 days available I have several options, maybe North to Scandinavia, East to Odessa, a Ukrainian, Red Sea resort, or maybe South East to Istanbul? What a great trip that would be.
But I didn't want to spend most of my time riding hot dull motorways for days on end. I love almost any road running along a sunny coastline and I love fresh sea food, so I decided after Brno I would go via Bratislava and explore Croatia down to Dubrovnik then follow the Adriatic then over the Alps home. My route would take in France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy and Switzerland.
The Dream is now a plan.
Being a fan of riders like Ted Simon's round the world adventures and Ewan & Charlie on their "Long way round" and many more, it had to be a motorcycle road trip and camping so I can go and stop where I please, but where shall I go?
I've always wanted to ride to the African continent, so Morocco is possible, but mid August in the Sahara? I think not. It needs to be Europe.
Just looking at the MotoGP calender convinces me the I am going to Brno in the Czech Republic. Valentino Rossi is having a tough time taming Ducati's new boy Casey Stoner, so the Doctor need all the support he can get.
So an embryonic plan takes shape, 2 days to get there, see practice on Saturday and the race on Sunday, then where?
In the remaining 6 days available I have several options, maybe North to Scandinavia, East to Odessa, a Ukrainian, Red Sea resort, or maybe South East to Istanbul? What a great trip that would be.
But I didn't want to spend most of my time riding hot dull motorways for days on end. I love almost any road running along a sunny coastline and I love fresh sea food, so I decided after Brno I would go via Bratislava and explore Croatia down to Dubrovnik then follow the Adriatic then over the Alps home. My route would take in France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy and Switzerland.
The Dream is now a plan.
The Bike
I have ridden and raced all sorts of motorcycles for most of my life, most of my bikes have been very focused on the job they had to do. e.g. road racing or trials. I have never ridden let alone owned a touring bike, but as I was planning to ride 5,000 miles in 10 days, a touring bike would be top of my list. My current bike is a BMW HP2, a great bike and really fun to ride, but would not be my 1st choice for touring with a very small fuel tank, very hard narrow seat, and it would be difficult to carry more luggage than a toothbrush. Most of the Japanese offerings are so soulless, so I chose a BMW touring bike, the R1200 RT
This bike while sharing the same twin cylinder engine block, is totally different to ride, its immediately comfortable, good mid range power from the engine, and the handling is typical of modern BMW's, very planted front end yet for such a big bike quite manoeuvrable if required.
Powerful front brakes with ABS inspire confidence when the road offers less than optimal grip. Suspension is adjustable from a handlebar button while you are riding, as is the large screen.
And a good size fuel tank and 55 mpg means I will only have to stop for juice every 275 miles.
This bike while sharing the same twin cylinder engine block, is totally different to ride, its immediately comfortable, good mid range power from the engine, and the handling is typical of modern BMW's, very planted front end yet for such a big bike quite manoeuvrable if required.
Powerful front brakes with ABS inspire confidence when the road offers less than optimal grip. Suspension is adjustable from a handlebar button while you are riding, as is the large screen.
And a good size fuel tank and 55 mpg means I will only have to stop for juice every 275 miles.
Trip Preparation
Preparation is the key to a spontaneous adventure.
The dream was to go camping during the trip. So with 2 weeks to go I assembled my tent, sleeping bag Swedish army stove, meths and some food, pretty soon I realised the bike would be piled up with kit, that's not how I wanted to ride, so I made the decision no camping, it would have to be hotels all the way.
The problem is you want the security of a decent hotel at a sensible price, but you don't want to be tied down to a schedule or even a route. So do you book in advance or just turn up late in a strange town and expect to find a clean room and not get ripped off.
Advance Purchases (1 week to go)
The dream was to go camping during the trip. So with 2 weeks to go I assembled my tent, sleeping bag Swedish army stove, meths and some food, pretty soon I realised the bike would be piled up with kit, that's not how I wanted to ride, so I made the decision no camping, it would have to be hotels all the way.
The problem is you want the security of a decent hotel at a sensible price, but you don't want to be tied down to a schedule or even a route. So do you book in advance or just turn up late in a strange town and expect to find a clean room and not get ripped off.
Advance Purchases (1 week to go)
- Got my tickets for the Brno MotoGP directly from the track website.
- Booked Euro tunnel tickets
- www.ebookers.com for an overnight stop in Frankfurt, got a 4 star hotel inc breakfast for £25
- Getting a hotel anywhere near Brno at a sensible price proved more difficult, it was simply a matter of searching the internet and sending a few emails directly for prices. Eventually found a place just south of the city.
Day 1: 16th Aug 2007 - Home - Frankfurt 490 miles
Day one, bikes packed and I'am on the road before 6am, as I leave the M3 and join the M25 the sun is just starting to break over the mist from the sewage works creating a strange orange glow.Stopped for a full English breakfast at Clacket lane services, then on to Folkstone. I am soon waiting in a short line of bikes to board the train. You always meet some interesting bikers and we swap stories of where we are going.
A short train trip later and I'm on the road, a little bit of France, through Belgium past Brussels, into Germany.
The SatNav directs me to my hotel and I am in my room by 4pm. What a bargain, a 4 star hotel for £25 inc breakfast.
Day 2 Frankfurt -Brno 485 miles
Day 2 perfect blue sky, so an early breakfast and on the road, what an amazing road system the German Autobahn is, I set the cruise control to 110 mph and the BMW chews through the miles. What a rush travelling at 100 mph + at 7.45 am.
The bike feels amazing, fast and responsive, it knows its on home soil, its so easy to ride quickly, I set the suspension to sport and start to explore the upper speed capabilities of the bike, bear in mind I am fully loaded with clothes and tools etc for a 10 day trip. At an indicated 140 mph, it weaves a little, I experiment with sitting position and find if I keep my weight forwards its more stable. Mile after mile at amazing speeds, I can't believe its still legal. Soon I'm at the Czech border so I head for Prague for lunch, quick ride round this historic city then I take a slight detour to the Church of Bones at Kutna Hora www.kostnice.cz
Then back on the motorway to Brno and my Hotel. I get there at about 6pm.
The bike feels amazing, fast and responsive, it knows its on home soil, its so easy to ride quickly, I set the suspension to sport and start to explore the upper speed capabilities of the bike, bear in mind I am fully loaded with clothes and tools etc for a 10 day trip. At an indicated 140 mph, it weaves a little, I experiment with sitting position and find if I keep my weight forwards its more stable. Mile after mile at amazing speeds, I can't believe its still legal. Soon I'm at the Czech border so I head for Prague for lunch, quick ride round this historic city then I take a slight detour to the Church of Bones at Kutna Hora www.kostnice.cz
Then back on the motorway to Brno and my Hotel. I get there at about 6pm.
Day 3: Brno MotoGP Practice
Leisurely breakfast in the hotel then off to see practice. You have to pay 100 Kr (£2.20) for parking, but it is quite secure, with lots of police guarding the bike park, and you have to show you bike doc's (V5 etc) to get the bike out.
The Rossi fan club is very organised and arrives early to secure a good place for the days practice.
In the dying moments of final practice John Hopkins falls from the Rizzla Suzuki and has to find a slower way back to the pits.
In the excitement some fireworks set fire to the grass in front of one of the grandstands, a fire engine has to attend to put it out and this is only practice. How mad will they go when the racing actually starts tomorrow?
After practice I ride into Brno centre and blag a free session on the internet at the tourist office and book a hotel in Graz, Austria for Sunday night after the race. Lots of police around Brno and on the way back to the hotel I get stopped at a road block and have to show bikes V5, driving licence, green card insurance and passport.
The Rossi fan club is very organised and arrives early to secure a good place for the days practice.
In the dying moments of final practice John Hopkins falls from the Rizzla Suzuki and has to find a slower way back to the pits.
In the excitement some fireworks set fire to the grass in front of one of the grandstands, a fire engine has to attend to put it out and this is only practice. How mad will they go when the racing actually starts tomorrow?After practice I ride into Brno centre and blag a free session on the internet at the tourist office and book a hotel in Graz, Austria for Sunday night after the race. Lots of police around Brno and on the way back to the hotel I get stopped at a road block and have to show bikes V5, driving licence, green card insurance and passport.
Day 4: Brno MotoGP Race Day
My hotel is about 20 km south of Brno so its a short motorway ride to the track. On the way I join thousands of other bikes from Hungary, Slovenia, Bulgaria in a 100 mph charge to Brno. Arrive bright and early at the turn off to the track , I was OK until about 2 miles to go then total chaos, bikes, cars and coaches everywhere, but I get through OK to the car park, then a long walk to the track. 
Racing gets under way and its the 125 cc race that gets the crowd really going as they cheer on a heroic five way battle that includes the Hungarian Gabor Talmacsi and the local boy Lucas Pesek who fights his way onto the podium for 3rd place, the crowd goes totally bonkers.
Rossi had a very bad day on the Yamaha by his standards and struggled to finish seventh, his team mate Colin Edwards suffering a rare fall on lap two.
After the excitement of the days racing its always an anti climax as you dash to the bike park and fight with everyone else to get out, which thankfully didn't take too long.
Then back to the hotel just to pick up my bags and it was back on the road south to Slovakia, past Bratislava, then onto Vienna and my hotel in Graz, southern Austria a trip of about 250 miles.
Racing gets under way and its the 125 cc race that gets the crowd really going as they cheer on a heroic five way battle that includes the Hungarian Gabor Talmacsi and the local boy Lucas Pesek who fights his way onto the podium for 3rd place, the crowd goes totally bonkers.
Rossi had a very bad day on the Yamaha by his standards and struggled to finish seventh, his team mate Colin Edwards suffering a rare fall on lap two.
After the excitement of the days racing its always an anti climax as you dash to the bike park and fight with everyone else to get out, which thankfully didn't take too long.
Then back to the hotel just to pick up my bags and it was back on the road south to Slovakia, past Bratislava, then onto Vienna and my hotel in Graz, southern Austria a trip of about 250 miles.
Day 5: Graz - Split 395 miles
On the road at 8 am and soon it started to rain, so on with the BMW 1 piece rainsuit, didn't take long to get to the Slovenian border on the road to Maribor, then into Croatia, past Zagreb, headed on the motorway until the exit for Senj before the rain stopped. Then down a twisty road to the coastal town of Senj and my first view of the Adriatic Sea.
From there I followed the coast road until stopping for lunch at a road side restaurant and a superb fish meal. I love Mediterranean style cooking using fresh ingredients cooked in olive oil, garlic, herbs etc. and I was not disappointed, this was going to be a great few days.
I carried on down the coast until Sibenik where I looked for somewhere to stay for the night. There are lots of signs on private houses showing rooms or Zimmer, so I was confident I would find somewhere, but wherever I tried they were not keen on me staying only 1 night, I did find one room but they wanted 25 euro which I felt was a bit steep for what was a dingy room, so I pressed on to Split and found a 3 star hotel for the night. What an exiting cosmopolitan city Split is, I enjoyed my brief stay there.
From there I followed the coast road until stopping for lunch at a road side restaurant and a superb fish meal. I love Mediterranean style cooking using fresh ingredients cooked in olive oil, garlic, herbs etc. and I was not disappointed, this was going to be a great few days.
I carried on down the coast until Sibenik where I looked for somewhere to stay for the night. There are lots of signs on private houses showing rooms or Zimmer, so I was confident I would find somewhere, but wherever I tried they were not keen on me staying only 1 night, I did find one room but they wanted 25 euro which I felt was a bit steep for what was a dingy room, so I pressed on to Split and found a 3 star hotel for the night. What an exiting cosmopolitan city Split is, I enjoyed my brief stay there.
Day 6: Split - Perast, Montenegro 185 miles
After my usual early breakfast I was on the road to Dubrovnik, there is still no motorway south of Split, so it was onto the coast road with the trucks and buses belching diesel fumes and the occasional suicidal driver.What a fantastic ride that was, perfect blue sky, not too hot about 25c and a twisty road with a spectacular view of the sea and the islands.
It took longer than anticipated to get to Dubrovnik, its not the sort of road you can do quickly, due to the great views and demanding nature of the road.
Following the breakup of Yugoslavia the geography of the countries can be a little confusing and you have to drive into a bit of Bosnia Herzegovina then back into Croatia to get to Dubrovnik.The traffic jam getting into Dubrovnik was crazy, and by now it was getting hotter, I stopped at a cyber cafe for a cold drink and search for a cheap hotel in town, but again nobody seemed keen on a one night stay, the guy running the cyber cafe was very helpful and rang around to see what was available, but no luck.
Dubrovnik is a truly beautiful city, but gets very overcrowded in peak season, plus there is a motorway being built from Split which will make the traffic and overcrowding much worse, so if you want to see this lovely city, go now.So it was back on the bike and head further south. Despite the clear blue sky on this photo, I was in heavy rain 30 min later.
Soon I came to the border with Montenegro, a lot of bike insurance/green cards do not cover this country and a insurance guy was doing brisk business selling extra cover to hapless travellers. The border official briskly ordered sight of all my bike documents, but I was already covered, so reluctantly they let me go on.
The road in this part of the world require very special care when it rains, some is OK but occasionally its like riding on a diesel slick.
The local currency in Montenegro is Euro so very straight forward, but I found the language very difficult, but again my German was understood in most places.
The first few towns in Montenegro I passed through were not as picturesque as Croatia, but fairly soon the rain cleared and I found a real gem, Perast. A village with origins in the 16th century this picturesque village matched anything I had seen around the Med.
I get a small double room in the Conte Hotel, expensive but very comfortable.
After putting my bike panniers into my room I take a short ride down the coast and go for a swim.
Like most of the coast in this region its a stony shoreline, but the water is very clear and after a hot day on the bike fantastically refreshing and quite salty.
That night for dinner I order a "sea food platter" a magnificent selection of large juicy prawns, squid, etc etc and a very good bottle of Montenegro Sauvignon white.
Day 7: Perast - Senj 356 miles
Ding dong, ding dong, 6 am and the tall tower outside my hotel makes sure everyone in Perast is awake. Its another beautiful morning and as breakfast doesn't start until 9 am I go for a walk along the coast.This is truly a lovely peaceful place and I wish I could stay longer, but its time to start heading home. Which route shall I take, I would like to visit the bridge at Mostar and go on to Sarajevo, but that could easily add a day to my trip. So unfortunately its back on the coast road north onto Croatia past Split, back onto the motorway and by 4pm its time to look for a place to stay for the night. I see Senj on the map and head into town, pretty soon I've secured a Zimmer (Room) for the night.
Day 8: Senj - Pforzheim 533 miles
If I can put in some big miles today I could be home by tomorrow, so its a 6:30 am start but once again it starts to rain which slows me, I had only been on the road a short while when I passed a very bad accident, a van had taken a very heavy head on,and was lying in the road, it didn't look good for the driver, as people on the scene looked in control I pressed on.
I followed the very slippery looking coast road out of Croatia into Slovenia past Ljubljana. Slovenia look more like Austria than Austria does and I wish I could stay longer. I ride onto the motorway and into Austria, by 11am its stopped raining, Austria looks beautiful even from the motorway and I'm soon past Salzburg, I stop for a sandwich at Munich.
After the last three days of slow sometimes treacherous roads the German Autobahn is like a shot of adrenaline straight into your brain, once again 140 mph comes up on the speedo, man I love this countries road system.
By the time I am past Stuttgart I decide its hotel search time again and turn-off for Pforzheim and quickly secure a very tidy en-suite room in the Hotel Montana, 3 star in the middle of town. The guy managing the hotel offers parking my bike in the ground floor entrance, but I don't want to risk going up the steps, so park the bike in a nearby multi storey car park overnight for a few Euros.
Its time for my last supper, this time I eat in a Greek restaurant and start with complimentary glass of petrol, at least that's what it smells like but am reliably informed its Ouzo, and I reflect what a great trip I have been on for the last week or so.
I've briefly touched some cultures new to me, met some lovely people and what a great bike I've been riding. The more I ride the BMW R1200 RT the more I like it, it is truly a great motorcycle, I have a history of racing and competition bikes and have never previously ridden a "touring" bike before, but this German gem has got me through fast roads, slippery roads, bumpy roads, and dealt with all of them and asked for more. Some days I've done 12 hours in the saddle only stopping for fuel, and still felt like I could manage another 12, its side panniers easily carried all I needed for a 10 day trip including tools (which I never needed). It used no oil, managed a totally amazing 55 mpg average for the whole trip. Its low centre of gravity and wide bars made the tricky riding a piece of cake and the huge adjustable fairing took the bite off the wind and rain and even allowed me to adjust my sunglasses, both hands off the bars at 110 plus (don't do this at home kids).
I followed the very slippery looking coast road out of Croatia into Slovenia past Ljubljana. Slovenia look more like Austria than Austria does and I wish I could stay longer. I ride onto the motorway and into Austria, by 11am its stopped raining, Austria looks beautiful even from the motorway and I'm soon past Salzburg, I stop for a sandwich at Munich.
After the last three days of slow sometimes treacherous roads the German Autobahn is like a shot of adrenaline straight into your brain, once again 140 mph comes up on the speedo, man I love this countries road system.
By the time I am past Stuttgart I decide its hotel search time again and turn-off for Pforzheim and quickly secure a very tidy en-suite room in the Hotel Montana, 3 star in the middle of town. The guy managing the hotel offers parking my bike in the ground floor entrance, but I don't want to risk going up the steps, so park the bike in a nearby multi storey car park overnight for a few Euros.
Its time for my last supper, this time I eat in a Greek restaurant and start with complimentary glass of petrol, at least that's what it smells like but am reliably informed its Ouzo, and I reflect what a great trip I have been on for the last week or so.
I've briefly touched some cultures new to me, met some lovely people and what a great bike I've been riding. The more I ride the BMW R1200 RT the more I like it, it is truly a great motorcycle, I have a history of racing and competition bikes and have never previously ridden a "touring" bike before, but this German gem has got me through fast roads, slippery roads, bumpy roads, and dealt with all of them and asked for more. Some days I've done 12 hours in the saddle only stopping for fuel, and still felt like I could manage another 12, its side panniers easily carried all I needed for a 10 day trip including tools (which I never needed). It used no oil, managed a totally amazing 55 mpg average for the whole trip. Its low centre of gravity and wide bars made the tricky riding a piece of cake and the huge adjustable fairing took the bite off the wind and rain and even allowed me to adjust my sunglasses, both hands off the bars at 110 plus (don't do this at home kids).
Day 9: Pforzheim - Home 680 miles
Its the last day, the trip has been amazing but its time to get home, a last blast on the Autobahn then straight back to the Calais tunnel terminal, even though I arrive 1 day earlier than my train booking Eurotunnel kindly let me straight onto the next train for no surcharge.
Then back into UK, I always have a problem adjusting to driving on the left when I return home and have to consciously remind myself stay on the left.
I am finally home. The trip is over I am very happy to be home with my wife and son, but I will always remember this trip and what a great bike I rode.
Then back into UK, I always have a problem adjusting to driving on the left when I return home and have to consciously remind myself stay on the left.
I am finally home. The trip is over I am very happy to be home with my wife and son, but I will always remember this trip and what a great bike I rode.
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